“Surfing has taught me to appreciate more the surf town where I grew up and nature.”
Written by: Pam Diaz
Tell us about your first experiences discovering Surf. I learned to surf 6 years ago. I remember, as if it were today, when my dad pushed me on my first wave. It was a unique sensation and that day my life changed completely.
What has been your most memorable moment surfing? There are many, but the last one was in Encuentro, in an afternoon session. We were 4 in the water and there was a beautiful sunset. It was a magical moment.
What has been your scariest moment surfing? 3 years ago on the Canal beach right. The waves were big and the set took me to the rocks (reef) on the shore.
What things does surfing bring to your daily life? My mentality has changed a lot, I am in contact with nature, and I have learned to appreciate how and where I grew up.
What can be done to make the surf scene grow in the Dominican Republic? More support from the government, this would help the growth of surfing and Dominicans would have more opportunities to make themselves known outside the country.
How is the surf scene among the Dominican girls? Every day more Dominican girls are seen in the water. The atmosphere among women is always super positive. There is always support and constant mockery.
Three things you do just before surfing:
- Put on sunscreen (I do not enter without sunscreen).
- Drink a lot of water.
- Sometimes I stretch my shoulders a little.
Top 3 best surf spots – describe each one:
- El Canal – My first left. A long and strong wave. Everyone who has surfed it says it’s amazing.
- Left of Encuentro – Reef break with sand. Wave of several sessions.
- La Preciosa – A good row! Reef break (left and right) with great force.
What do you do when you are not surfing? Study, at the gym, with friends/family, or eating.
What other things are you passionate about? Physical activities, soccer and nutrition.
The best message that surfing has given you? Patience is the answer.
Top international lady surfer that you admire and follow: Malia Manuel
Top 5 songs to go surfing:
- Maquina (Los teke teke)
- Flawless (Beyonce)
- Lower the Tension (Cultura profetica)
- Ay vamos (J Balvin)
- Collie Herb Man (Katchafire)
First thing in your mind when hearing the word:
- Paddle Out – Go surfing
- Barrel – Leon Gough
- Peak – The meeting peak looks like a jungle
- Encuentro – Preferred Place
- Backside – La Boya
To follow Maria Jose’s adventures closely, follow her on Instagram: @mjnadal
Photos courtesy of: Sina Sadeghi, Daniel Stockdale, Obdulio Luna, Pink Magazine, Manny Gomez, Alexandra Varacalli, Hawaiianita Swimwear
Images: External Sources
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